BRIAN REID PHOTOGRAPHER
France October 2024 - Day 17 North West Brittany
Monday, 21 October 2024 19:18
I had low expectations for today when I looked out the hotel window to see rain bouncing of the ground and my mood was not helped with a look at the weather radar. It looked like another day deluged in rain. It did not quite work out like that. As the weather was coming from the west I decided to take a leisurely breakfast and then head west to Pointe Saint-Mathieu with its lighthouse and ruined abbey so that if the weather was cleraring it wouild likely clear there first. Close to the lighthouse there is one of a number of museums covering 1939-45 as this area was both part of the German Atlantic Wall but also included successful French resistance and SOE activity. I decided that, with it still raining, this was a good place to start the day and it was €8.50 well spent. At the heart is a command centre/barracks which makes an ideal multilevel museum with interesting exhibits and signage in French and English. There was just me and a French family so no crowds to deal with. The equipment included some monster binoculars which gave a clear view of the lighthouse. Even the Jocks were represented in the displays. As I left the museum the rain had stopped so adding to the enjoyment of the lighthouse and abbey. The name comes from the classic, dodgy, story of pilglims bringing back a relic of Mathieu from Ethiopia. That means a piece of the disciple himself. Unlkely, to say the least, and not a little gruesome. Along a cliff path there are little blue plaques which list shipwrecks along this stretch of coast, some not 20 years ago. One of the most famous wrecks near here, around 30km, was the tanker Amoco Cadiz. This occured in 1978 with the release of over 200,000 tonnes of oil, one of the worst oil spills ever recorded. I was entertained by a sign in the abbey telling us to keep out of the military site. By the quality of the fencing they must be using G4S to provide their security. Close by is the fishing village of Le Conquet where the tide was pretty much out and the main interest for me were some fascinating houses. I was not feelng at my best so decided on one more top destination before heading back to Brest. (Feeling OK now) It was also getting on a bit after a late start. So it was off along the coast to another lighthouse, this time near Kerlouan at Pontusval on the Côte des Legendes. The top of an old granite mountain range has weathered into huge smooth boulders randomly strewn along and near the coast. Well worth a visit. I hope the photos do it justice and it helps with people and familiar objects to give scale. My final stop was just to look outside the Chateaux de Kerjean. Quite a grand if muted castle in lovely grounds including the car park. I was not the only car. There was a parallel identical area on the other side of the avenue. In the end a much better day than I could have hoped for in this quiet corner of France.